From Calarasi, the River Danube flows due north to Galati, where it regains its original direction eastwards to the Black Sea. Effectively this course cuts off the Eastern part of Romania and this area is known - with the Danube Delta to the north - as Dobrogea. The southern part of the area is characterised by a gentle, undulating landscape - arid in the summer months, leading across the long, sandy beaches on the Black Sea coast. Further north the dry, Macin Hills are the oldest mountains in Europe, dividing Dobrogea from the fascinating Delta of the River Danube. Tortoises, various rodents like the European souslik, and a variety of unusual and exotic birds can be found here.

The Danube Delta consists of some 4000 square kilometres of river channel, meandering waterways, shallow weed-filled lakes, floating reed beds, sand dunes, and virgin woodland. Similar to the French Carmargue, the Danube Delta is a haven for wildlife - especially more than 300 species of birds. The Danube Delta is the only place in Europe where several of these species can be found. The Delta is also a paradise for the botanist, with some 1600 plant species - not least the magnificent yellow and white water lilies which grace many of the waterways in late spring and early summer. The Delta is a protected Biosphere Reserve, though sadly little evidence of this can be seen other than a few old signs and concrete marker blocks along the boundary of the reserve. There are a number of small, specific sections of the Delta into which entry is forbidden in theory, other than with the express permission of the Biosphere administrators. These include several of the lakes and parts of the virgin forest at Letea, and the entry restrictions should be observed (see Travel Hints below).

The Danube flows along three primary channels through the Delta - these fan out from Tulcea, often regarded as the "gateway" to the Delta. The northern channel is known as the Chilia Arm and forms the international border between Romania and the Republic of Moldova, as well as between Romania and the Ukraine. The middle arm is the Sulina Arm, entering the Black Sea at Sulina, and the southern Sf. Gheorghe (Saint George) arm reaches the Black Sea at the town of Sf. Gheorghe. The fan-shaped area contained by these three arms of the river, is regarded as the Delta proper, and is a fascinating area for bird watching, as well as home to a wide range of other fauna and flora.

Access into the Delta is difficult, and can ONLY be made by boat. There are regular hydrofoil and ferry services along the main arms of the Danube from Tulcea, but time is needed for a return journey. It is extremely difficult to navigate the convoluted network of channels and waterways, and foreign visitors should not attempt this without good local knowledge. In practice a qualified Delta boatman is needed anyway for entry into the area of the Biosphere Reserve.

Often (mistakenly) ignored by bird watchers, are the collection of large, brackish lakes to the immediate south of the Delta proper - Lakes Razim, Sinoie and Istria. The landward side of these lakes is relatively easy to explore by road. There are several IBA's in this area and many excellent bird watching locations.

1. Birdwatching - Delta, Lakes Razim, Sinoie, Istria, Macin Hills.
2. Fauna - Delta, Macin Hills.
3. Seahorse conservation project - Southern Dobrogean coast.
4. Caves - around Constanta and Southern Dobrogea.
5. Geto-Thracian and Byzantine forts - right through area from southern boundary of Delta down onto the Bulgarian border.
6. Ancient Greek remains at Histria, and Roman remains in Constanta.

1. All Danube Delta boatmen are proud of their domain and enjoy showing off the Delta to visitors. Many have only a basic knowledge of birds and of conservation. Take a competent translator and insist on your boatman travelling SLOWLY so that you can fully appreciate the tranquility and extraordinary wildlife of the Delta, without creating a wake that will disturb birds, animals and reptiles and destroy the fragile earth banks of the water channels.

Foreign visitors to Romania are often confused by the connection between the area of north-eastern Romania known as "Moldova" (in Romanian language) or "Moldavia", and the independent state of the Republic of Moldova. In order to ease the confusion we will use the name "Moldavia" to refer to the north-eastern part of Romania. Romanian Moldavia and Bucovina are perhaps best known for the many 13th and 14th century monasteries founded by Stephen The Great and his family. Most noteworthy are the 5 "Painted Monasteries of Bucovina", which together form a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Much of Moldavia is characterised by an open landscape of rolling hills, rich in vegetation and extensively farmed - by both large collective farms as well as many self-sufficient smallholdings. For the regions defined on this website, the western extremities of Moldavia and Bucovina overlap the foothills of the Eastern Carpathian Mountains - known as the "Oriental Carpathians". In Bucovina the valleys are more deeply incised and the hills rather higher as they rise to the west towards the Carpathians proper. Apart from the Painted Monasteries, Bucovina is known for its colourful painted hens' eggs, and the equally colourful woven woollen rugs.

1. Birdwatching - across the whole area (see Travel Hints below).
2. The 5 Painted Monasteries of Bucovina - Voronet, Sucevita, Moldovita, Humor, Arbore.
3. Woven wool rugs - Bucovina.
4. Painted eggs (not just Easter) - Bucovina.
5. "Black Pottery" at Marginea in Bucovina - one of the few potteries in Europe still making black pots by an ancient firing technique.
6. Folk festivals, especially the primitive winter festivals in many Moldavian towns.

1. With a local guide (essential as there are no waymarked maps available) it is possible to link several of the "Painted Monasteries" by day walks over the hills and through dense beech and birch forest - an excellent way to discover Bucovina!
2. Bird watchers are recommended to try several of the valleys to the north of Barlad and the west of Vaslui - especially those valleys with lakes and reservoirs - where bird life abounds in late spring and early summer.

Maramures is the part of Romania best known for its well-preserved rural culture. Here you will meet small-holder farmers, farming primarily by hand and horse, shepherds travelling with vast herds of sheep, village women spinning and weaving rugs using traditional designs and natural dyes, villagers wearing traditional working clothes and traditional costume at weekends, and a myriad of wildlife.

The Maramures consists of 4 valleys that all flow into the River Tisa - itself forming the northern boundary of Romania with the Ukraine. The parallel valleys of the Iza and Viseu flow north west and meet the Mara and Cosau at Vadu Izei near to the market town of Sighetu Marmatiei (Sighet for short). The high Maramures and Rodnei Mountains to the east form part of the Carpathian chain (see elsewhere for this region), while the Tibles and Gutai Mountains to the south and west, effectively cut the Maramures valleys off from the rest of Romania.

The Maramures landscape is very different to that of the rest of rural Romania. Here the narrow strips of farmland follow the contours like terraces, rather than going up and down the slopes as elsewhere. Many forms of hay stacks are used for drying hay, including the conical "capite" seen elsewhere, rows of cylindrical stooks that look like an army of shepherds wearing sheepskin cloaks, and (unique to Maramures) square hay barns dotted around the fields, with lifting pyramid roofs supported on 4 stout wooden poles. Tall, spindly wooden churches - built entirely of wood without even metal nails - dot the landscape. Many of the village houses are built of un-plastered wooden planks and beams - with tools, implements and brightly enamelled cooking pots hanging in the porches. Massive roofed wooden gateways - each carved with symbols representing the significance of the sun, water, soil and forest - make an impressive entrance to every house and courtyard. Rich pastures - covered in wild flowers in spring and early summer - provide excellent grazing for cows, sheep and sometimes goats. Chemical pesticides and fertilisers are rarely used, so insect life abounds and thus birds are plentiful.

By contrast, much of Salaj to the west (in the far north west corner of Romania) is flat and open - an extension of the Great Hungarian Plain.

1. Local festivals (especially winter and spring).
2. Wooden churches in many villages.
3. Wooden gateways, traditional houses, colourful costumes.
4. Production and use of wool, from the sheep flock and shepherds, to spinning and rug making.
5. Merry cemetery at Sapanta.
6. Narrow-gauge steam forest railway - Viseu de Sus and Vaser Valley
7. Pipas folk heritage museum (private) - Tisa village.
8. Memorial Museum to the Communist Resistance - Sighet.
9. Painting of religious icons on glass - Vadu Izei.

1. Hire a horse-drawn cart from one of several villages (e.g. Botiza, Vadu Izei) for a relaxing expedition through the rural Maramures landscape.

Whilst still part of the Carpathian chain, the Apuseni Mountains in Western Transylvania are a separate block of mountains. They primarily limestone and exhibit typical "karst" scenery - deeply eroded valleys with many gorges and caves. Once heavily forested, the Apuseni have succumbed in recent years to a degree of overall deforestation as a result of the partial privatisation of forest land. A second threat exists - to the area between Campeni and Abrud - as a result of plans to expand the Canadian-owned Rosia Montana gold mine. Nevertheless the Apuseni present a fascinating terrain with a rather different wildlife to that of the other regions of the Carpathians.

The foothills of the Apuseni to the west and south, descend gradually to the much flatter plain of the Banat - really part of the Great Hungarian Plain. The area is characterised by the floodplain of the Mures river, and by the 3 large cities of Oradea, Arad and Timisoara.

Emil Racovita (1868 - 1947) was a Romanian scientist who introduced the science of speleology - the study of caves and caving - to the world. He founded he Department of Speleology at the University of Cluj-Napoca. The Apuseni Mountains are home to many of the estimated 12,000 caves in Romania. Noteworthy are the massive Meziad and Cetatile Ponorului caves, the Bear Cave in which bones of the extinct cave-dwelling bear Ursus spelaeus were discovered in 1975, and two ice caves. The Focul Viu and Scarisoara ice caves filled up in the Great Ice Age, and the ice inside never melts. All these caves, and many others can be visited.

The Padis Plateau displays classic karst scenery, with gorges, caves and underground water courses. Part of the area is a nature reserve. Many of the gorges offer opportunities for kayaking as well as exploring on foot. The Aries Valley and gorge bisect the Apuseni Mountains, offering good access.

1. Padis Plateau and nature reservation.
2. Caves and gorges mentioned in text.
3. Turda Gorge and salt mine.
4. Horse-back riding across the Apuseni Mountains.

1. Many of the tracks crossing the mountains are accessible only to good 4x4s. Better still, explore the area on horse-back.

The Carpathian Mountain chain rises in the Ukraine to the north, running southwards through Romania between Bucovina and Moldavia to the east, and Maramures and Transylvania to the west. In the sub-group known as the Vrancea Mountains - the earthquake epicentre of Romania - the Carpathians make a dramatic turn to the west, eventually heading out into Serbia and Western Bulgaria. The Eastern section of the Carpathians, between the Rodna (Rodnei) Mountains in the north and the Vrancea Mountains to the south, is known in Romanian as the Carpatii Orientali or Eastern Carpathians.

The highest peaks in the Eastern Carpathians are found in the Rodna and Caliman Mountains to the north - Pietrosul (Rodna) at 2302m/7550ft, Ineu at 2279m/7475ft, and Pietrosul (Caliman) at 2104m/6901ft. Further south the Ceahlau peak stands alone at 1900m/6232ft and Penteleu in the Vrancea Mountains reaches 1774m/5818ft. The Harghita Mountains to the west rise to 1800m/5900ft and are wild and densely forested, yet with gentler slopes. Each block of mountains is separated by deeply incised valleys with streams running east into the Siret river, or west into the Bistrita, Mures and Olt. The lower slopes of these mountains are forested with oak, hornbeam, lime and ash up to 800m/2600ft, and then with beech and birch up to around 1400m/4600ft. Above this spruce and silver fir dominate the beech up to 1700m/5600ft with low growing mountain shrubs and bare rock above. The lowest slopes are farmed on the traditional strip system - largely by hand and with horse power, whereas the upper slopes are grazed by sheep - even to altitudes up to 6500ft. Transhumance - the movement of shepherds with their flocks across country from high alpine summer pastures to lowland pastures in late and early season - is still practised, although the number of bands of shepherds staying out all year is declining.

These mountains offer many attractions to eco-tourists. They are still well populated with European brown bear, wolves and (to a lesser extent) lynx, as well as chamois, wild boar, red deer, wild cat, and a variety of other mammals. Birds of prey are common, and it is not unusual to see 8 buzzards soaring at one time. Golden eagles are becoming rarer, but Lesser spotted eagles, various buzzards and harriers, ravens, nutcrackers, woodpeckers, and a range of smaller birds can be seen. Wall creepers are an occasional find in some of the limestone gorges like the impressive Bicaz gorge.

Due to the limited use (for largely economic reasons) of chemical pesticides and fertilisers, many wild flowers and plants can still be found especially in the spring and early summer. These include the protected edelweiss and the unusual "Brother & Sister" flower (Melampyrum biharense) - a form of cow-wheat with yellow flowers contrasting against blue upper leaves.

1. All of the mountain massifs, including Rodna, Rarau, Caliman, Ceahlau, Harghita, Vrancea, Ciucas.
2. Various forest and nature reserves, including the Slatioara Secular Forest Reserve, which contains many ancient fir and spruce trees over 50 metres high.
3. Lake Bicaz and the Bicaz Gorge.
4. Other gorges with good opportunities for climbing and caving.
5. Bird watching right through the Eastern Carpathians.
6. Significant populations of bear, wolves, wild boar, chamois, red deer, and a few lynx (see Travel Hints below).
7. The "Muddy Volcanoes" (bubbling mud pools), and "Focul Viu" ("Living Flame") where natural gas escaping from fissures in the rock is burnt off, creating an eerie blue flickering flame at night - Buzau Hills to the south of the Vrancea Mountains.

1. Main line train journeys from Suceava to Dej and Miercurea Ciuc to Onesti, cross impressive mountain passes over the Eastern Carpathians.
2. Explore the Caliman and Suhard Mountains on horseback or by horse-drawn cart.
3. Bears, wolves and lynx - as well as the other large mammals listed above - are extremely difficult to see, and no reliable animal watching facilities exist yet. However, excellent local wildlife guides can be hired in several areas to take you on searches for tracks and signs of wildlife.

The highest peaks in the Carpathian Mountain chain are to be found here in the Southern Carpathians, with a number of peaks over 2500 metes (8200ft). The Carpathian chain runs into Romania from the Ukraine to the north, heading south east and then south, until it reaches the Vrancea Mountain massif. Here the chain takes a sudden turn to the west, separating Transylvania from the southern province of Wallachia, and eventually heading south west into Serbia and Bulgaria.

The northern escarpment of this section of the Carpathians, rises steeply above the Transylvanian plateau, whereas to the south side, the mountains drop away more slowly into an extensive range of foothills. Several rivers have cut through the range, and their valleys have produced important strategic and trading routes for past generations of settlers and invaders. Notably the Timis and Prahova valleys to the south of Brasov, the Bran-Rucar Pass which was effectively guarded by the well-known Bran castle, and the gorges of the Olt and Jiu rivers which broke through the Carpathian chain to reach the Danube.

As with the Eastern Carpathians, the Southern Carpathians are heavily forested with oak, hornbeam, lime and ash up to 800m/2600ft, and then beech and birch up to around 1400m/4600ft. Above this spruce and silver fir dominate up to 1700m/5600ft with low growing mountain shrubs and bare rock above. With the exception of the north side of the Fagaras massif, which rises steeply above the Transylvanian plateau, most of the lower slopes are farmed on the traditional strip system - largely by hand and with horse power. Where gradients permit, the upper slopes are grazed by sheep - even to altitudes up to 7000ft. Transhumance - the movement of shepherds with their flocks across country from high alpine summer pastures to lowland pastures in late and early season - is still practised, although the number of bands of shepherds staying out all year is declining.

These mountains offer many attractions to eco-tourists. They are still well populated with European brown bear, wolves and (to a lesser extent) lynx, as well as chamois, wild boar, red deer, wild cat, and a variety of other mammals. Birds of prey are common, with Lesser spotted eagles, various buzzards and harriers, ravens, nutcrackers, woodpeckers, and a wide range of smaller birds visible. Wall creepers are an occasional find in some of the limestone gorges like the Zarnesti gorge on the south eastern flank of Piatra Craiului mountain, and occasionally on the walls of the Vidraru dam.

Due to the limited use (for largely economic reasons) of chemical pesticides and fertilisers, many wild flowers and plants can still be found especially in the spring and early summer. These include the Piatra Craiului pink, which is only found amongst the upper slopes and crags of Piatra Craiului.

The Carpathian Large Carnivore Project was established in the early 1990's near to Zarnesti and Piatra Craiului, to study the lifestyles of wolves, and later lynx and bears too - and their interaction with humans. The research work came to an end after a very successful 10 years. Much of the impetus to extend wildlife and nature conservation in Romania, and to develop sustainable eco-tourism, was inspired by CLCP's work, hence the concentration of various eco-tourism services in this area.

1. Several National Parks (Retezat, Piatra Craiului and Bucegi), and many nature reserves.
2. Hiking, cycling, horseback riding, horse-drawn cart rides, exploring by 4x4, and winter activities like cross-country skiing and snowshoe exploration.
3. Excellent locations for climbing, caving and gorge walking.
4. Many castles and forts built by the historical defenders of Transylvania and Wallachia, to deter attacks by invaders.
5. Cazan Gorge on the Danube between the Mehedinti Mountains and Bulgaria.
6. Bear and wolf searching (see Travel Hints below).
7. Meeting the semi-tame wolves at the old Carpathian Large Carnivore Project research base, or at the new Large Carnivore Visitors Centre (opening date to be announced).
8. Meeting bears and the semi-tame wolves Crai and Croc at the Libearty bear sanctuary in Zarnesti.

1. Visitors are always demanding "bear and wolf watching", whereas in practice few reliable facilities yet exist. It is highly unlikely you will ever meet wild wolves - go to the Libearty bear sanctuary in Zarnesti to meet Crai and Croc instead. Avoid the temptation to join other tourists viewing the "rubbish skip bears" in Racadau, Brasov - these bears are at risk of extermination as a result of several incidents involving attacks on humans during 2004. AER member organisations CAN take you on wildlife searching expeditions, and occasional meetings with truly wild bears in the forest have been known.
2. Due to their relative accesibility, the Bucegi and Fagaras Mountains can be busy with hikers and tourists - especially in summer months. However the other mountains listed above, within the Southern Carpathians, are almost unvisited. Be adventurous and explore! Take a local guide to see the real Carpathians in their full glory!

To the south of the Southern Carpathians, and to the west of Dobrogea, lie the extensive floodplains of the River Danube and its tributaries. The Danube itself forms the southern border of Romania with Bulgaria, at least until the great river reaches the town of Calarasi. Here the river swings away from its eastward course, heading north to the inland port of Galati, before heading east again into its Delta and the Black Sea.

This area is characterised by vast tracts of arable farmland and open steppe. Whilst many villagers retain their self-sufficient strip farming by hand and horse power, much of this fertile alluvial plain has been turned into massive collective farms, privatised since the fall of communism. The area is quite arid and hot in summer, cold and windswept in winter. Apart from some areas that are good for bird watching, the myriads of wild flowers in spring and early summer, and the presence of wild boar, deer and smaller mammals, this area is less interesting for eco-tourism compared with other parts of Romania.

Nevertheless there are many opportunities for discovering rural culture, with many monasteries and historical sites. Also for the visitor, who does not have time to travel into the real rural areas, there are several excellent museums in Bucuresti which will give a taste of what can be found further afield.

1. Orthodox cathedral and monastery at Curtea de Arges
2. Monasteries at Horezu and Tismana.
3. Princely Court, cathedral and fortifications connected with Vlad Tepes "The Impaler" at Targoviste.
4. Architecture and museums (Natural History, Peasant Life, and open air "Village Museum" of old buildings) in Bucuresti.

1. Don't linger too long here or you will miss the real Romania - get up into the mountains and explore!

Transylvania is a region with an extraordinarily complex history, and a fascinating natural heritage. It is roughly the area contained within (i.e. to the west of) the "bowl" formed by the Carpathian Mountain chain passing through Romania. Historically the former principality of Transylvania included also the Apuseni, the Banat, Salaj and Maramures. The Transylvanian Plateau ("Podisul Transilvaniei" in Romanian) is Transylvania excluding those other areas.

The landscape of the Transylvanian Plateau is characterised by rolling hills and valleys, heavily wooded in places with oak, hornbeam, lime, ash, beech and birch. Much of the area is farmed - both self-sufficient small-holders farming by hand and horse power, as well as larger collective farms now mostly privatised - but with the decline in population of the area (see below) much of the land is now uncultivated.

In many ways, Transylvania as a whole - bounded by the high Carpathian Mountains and covered by dense and wild forest - was the battleground for almost 2 centuries between indiginous populations and various invaders. The southern part of this region between Alba Iulia, Sibiu, Brasov and Sighisoara - together with a smaller pocket of land around Bistrita to the north - was settled in the Middle Ages by "Saxon" Germans, brought in to help defend the area against frequent raids by the Tartars, and later the Turks. The Saxons brought with them their highly organised system of farming and village organisation, together with their language, religion and architecture. Much of the area between is home to the Szekely people who mostly speak Hungarian and have yet another rural culture.

Whilst the Saxons developed a highly organised civilisation, with a fortified church or refuge in almost every village, and eventually 7 fortified cities (The "Siebenburgen"), many of their descendants left the area during the Second World War, the following communist era, and since 1989. This has left much of the land uncultivated and most of their villages in a run-down or semi-derelict state. As a result of these historical changes, and the almost total lack (so far) of access to chemical pesticides and fertilisers, the rural landscape of the Transylvanian Plateau is home to a fascinating variety of birds, mammals, reptiles, and wild flowers and plants. Coupled with the vestiges of the area's fascinating history - ruins and restored castles, forts, churches and so on - this region is filled with things of interest to the eco-cultural explorer.

1. Hundreds of Saxon villages, many with fascinating (if as yet un-restored) fortified churches. A few to look out for are: Viscri, Apold, Biertan, Prejmer, Merghindeal, Valea Viilor, Homorod, but there are many others to be discovered.
2. The 7 Siebenburgen fortified cities, but especially Sighisoara, Sibiu and Brasov.
3. Saxon and Szekely forts and castles - notably those at Rasnov, Bran and Lazarea.
4. Bird watching all over the rural parts of this area (see Travel Hints below). Look for buzzards of various kinds, Lesser-spotted eagles, harriers, White storks, shrikes, woodpeckers, and exotic species like Hoopoe, Bee-eaters and Golden oriole.
5. This area is too low for lynx, and much of it is too low for bears, but the latter - with wolves, wild boar and red deer - can be seen very occasionally with patience and much luck! There are no reliable animal watching facilities as yet, but local guides will help you to explore the habitat, and tracks, markings and other signs on mammals can often be found with such specialist help.
6. The meadows and pastures are filled with wild flowers and plants in spring and early summer. Look for pastureland projects around Viscri in conjunction with several rural projects in the area.
7. Shepherding is extensive in this area - follow the production of milk and cheese, as well as woollen products.
8. There are several salt mines that can be visited - notably the vast underground salt caverns at Praid, near Sovata.

1. Get off the beaten track! Explore the Transylvanian Plateau away from the main roads and you will discover another way of life fast disappearing in most parts of Europe. Try the road (a good dirt track in part) from Zarnesti over the Persani Hills to Fagaras town, then via the villages of soars, Barcut, Retis, Bradeni and Apold to Sighisoara!
2. It is rumoured that several narrow-gauge passenger railways which were closed a few years ago are due to reopen. Seek out those from Sibiu to Agnita, and the lines from Targu Mures to Sovata and Band, for a slow journey through a time gone by!